Glycolic Acid (AHA)
Glycolic acid is the most studied and most potent alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), with the smallest molecular size of any AHA allowing it to penetrate the skin more deeply than lactic, mandelic, or other AHAs. This deep penetration makes it the most effective chemical exfoliant for improving skin texture, fading hyperpigmentation, and stimulating collagen production. It has been used in dermatology for decades in concentrations ranging from 5 percent daily-use products to 70 percent professional peels. The trade-off for its potency is a higher irritation risk -- glycolic acid is not appropriate for very sensitive or rosacea-prone skin without careful introduction. For those who can tolerate it, glycolic acid is one of the most transformative ingredients available without a prescription.
How Glycolic Acid Works
Glycolic acid has a molecular weight of 76 daltons -- the smallest of all AHAs -- allowing it to penetrate the stratum corneum more efficiently. It dissolves the intercellular bonds between corneocytes, promoting exfoliation. At deeper levels, it stimulates glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis in the dermis. The exfoliating action requires a pH of 3.0 to 4.0 for full activity. At neutral pH, glycolic acid still provides mild humectant benefits but minimal exfoliation.
Forms in Products
Evidence-Based Benefits
How to Use Glycolic Acid
Start at 5 percent concentration, 2 times per week, applied to clean dry skin in the evening. Increase to every other day after 4 weeks if tolerated. Always follow with moisturizer and use SPF 30+ daily -- glycolic acid significantly increases photosensitivity.
- Start low (5 percent) and slow (2x/week)
- Apply to dry skin -- wet skin increases penetration and irritation
- MUST use daily SPF -- glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity for up to 7 days
- Do not combine with retinoids in the same application
- Professional peels should only be done by licensed practitioners
Who Benefits Most
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